How-To Guide
By The Case Place Team · Updated March 2026 · 8 min read
You've got your Pelican case. Now you need to make it actually fit your gear. Whether you're working with pick-and-pluck foam, a solid foam block, or you want a clean knife-cut custom insert, this guide walks you through every method — so your camera, drone, pistol, or equipment fits snugly and stays protected.
TL;DR — Quick Answer
For pick-and-pluck foam: trace your gear, score the grid lines with a knife, then pull cubes out by hand. For solid foam: use an electric carving knife for clean cuts. Aim for a snug fit — your gear should require light pressure to seat, not fall loosely in place.
Understanding Pelican Foam Types
Before you cut anything, know what foam you're working with. Pelican cases ship with a few different interior configurations:
Pick-and-pluck foam is pre-scored into a grid of small cubes (roughly 1/4" squares) that you remove by hand — no cutting required for basic shapes. This is the most common foam in Pelican Protector cases and the easiest to work with for irregular shapes like camera bodies and lenses.
Solid foam (no pre-scoring) comes in some cases and requires cutting tools. It gives you cleaner edges and a more professional finish, but takes more time and skill.
Padded dividers aren't foam you cut at all — they're adjustable fabric-covered panels. If your case came with dividers, you don't need to cut anything; just rearrange them.
📦 Buying a surplus case? Most used Pelican cases from The Case Place don't come with their original pick-and-pluck foam. If the foam has existing cutouts from a previous owner, you can add new foam layers or purchase replacement foam from Pelican directly.
What You'll Need
For pick-and-pluck foam: just your hands. Optional: a marker, a ruler, and a hobby knife for cleaning up edges.
For solid foam cutting: an electric carving knife (the single best tool for this job), a sharp hobby knife or box cutter as backup, a marker, a ruler or straight edge, and a cutting mat or scrap cardboard underneath.
For trace templates: paper, scissors, and your actual gear to trace around.
Method 1: Pick-and-Pluck Foam (No Tools Required)
This is the method most people use for camera gear, electronics, and anything with an irregular shape.
Step 1: Plan Your Layout
Lay all your gear on a flat surface next to the open case. Decide how you want to arrange everything — heaviest items in the center, most-used gear near the top. Take a photo of the layout before you start so you can reference it.
Step 2: Mark the Outline
Place each piece of gear on the foam and trace around it with a marker. Leave at least 1/4" around each item — the foam will compress and grip, so you want a slightly tighter outline than the actual dimensions.
Step 3: Score the Perimeter (Optional but Recommended)
Using a hobby knife, score along the outline you traced. This gives you a clean, straight edge instead of a ragged pull-out line. Don't cut all the way through — just score the top layer.
Step 4: Pull Out the Cubes
Starting from the center of each cutout, grip individual cubes and pull them straight up. The pre-scored grid makes this easy. Work from the inside out toward your scored perimeter line. If a cube is stubborn, use your knife to free it.
Step 5: Check the Fit
Test-fit each piece of gear. It should require light pressure to seat — think "snug handshake," not "hammering it in." The foam should rise slightly above the gear when the lid is closed, creating compression that holds everything in place.
💡 Pro Tip: Leave a 3/8" lip of foam above each item when the lid is open. When closed, that lip compresses against the lid foam and locks your gear in place. Too little lip = gear shifts. Too much = lid won't close properly.
Step 6: Clean Up Edges
Use a hobby knife to trim any rough edges or stray cube fragments. A clean edge looks professional and prevents small foam pieces from breaking off into your gear over time.
Method 2: Knife-Cut Solid Foam
Use this method for a cleaner, more professional result — especially good for pistol cases, custom inserts, or when you want precise shapes that pick-and-pluck can't achieve.
The Electric Carving Knife Method (Recommended)
An electric carving knife — the kind used for Thanksgiving turkey — is the single best tool for cutting Pelican foam. The oscillating blade cuts smoothly through foam without compressing it, giving you clean, straight edges that a box cutter can't match.
Trace your gear onto the foam with a marker. Cut slowly along the line with the electric knife, letting the blade do the work. For curves, rotate the foam rather than trying to turn the knife. Keep the blade perpendicular to the foam surface for vertical walls.
The Hobby Knife Method
For detail work and small cutouts, a sharp hobby knife (X-Acto or equivalent) works well. Make multiple shallow passes rather than one deep cut — this prevents the foam from tearing. Replace the blade often; a dull blade drags and tears foam instead of cutting it cleanly.
Cutting Depth
Most gear should sit in a cutout that's about 60–70% of the item's height. For a camera body that's 4" tall, cut roughly 2.5" deep. The remaining foam below acts as a cushion, and the foam above the cut line holds the item in.
Method 3: Using a Foam Template
For complex shapes or when you want to make the same cutout multiple times (useful if you're outfitting multiple cases), create a paper template first.
Lay your gear on paper and trace it. Cut out the template and test it in the foam before committing to a cut. This is especially useful for pistol cases where precision matters, or for production setups where consistency is required.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Cutting too big. The most common mistake. Gear that fits loosely will shift in transit and can be damaged. Always cut slightly small and expand if needed — you can always remove more foam, you can't add it back.
Not accounting for the lid foam. Most Pelican cases have foam glued to the inside of the lid too. Factor in that compression when sizing your cutouts — if your gear sits flush with the top of the base foam, the lid foam will push down on it when closed.
Rushing the pick-and-pluck. Pulling cubes too fast causes them to rip unevenly, leaving jagged edges. Slow down, especially near the perimeter of your cutout.
Using a box cutter on curves. Box cutters are fine for straight cuts but struggle with curves. Use scissors or a hobby knife for anything rounded.
Buying Replacement Foam
If you're working with a used case that has old cutouts you don't want, or if you want a fresh foam layer, replacement options include:
Pelican sells official replacement foam kits for most of their case models. You can also find bulk blocks of foam at most hobby retailers.
If you purchased a surplus case from The Case Place with pre-existing foam cutouts that don't match your gear, the easiest fix is often to add a thin foam sheet on top and start fresh with pick-and-pluck on that layer.
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the best tool for cutting Pelican foam?
An electric carving knife gives the cleanest cuts on solid foam. For pick-and-pluck foam, no tools are needed — just your hands and an optional hobby knife for cleaning up edges.
How deep should I cut the foam?
Cut to about 60–70% of your gear's height, and leave a 3/8" lip above the item when seated. When the lid closes, that lip compresses against the lid foam to lock everything in place.
Can I redo the foam if I cut it wrong?
Not easily — you can't add foam back once it's removed. If you cut too big, your options are to add a foam shim around the cutout, cover with a new foam layer, or order replacement foam. That's why starting smaller and testing the fit is critical.
Does The Case Place sell cases with custom foam already cut?
Some of our new cases do come with pluck and pull foam. Otherwise, most surplus cases come with pre cut foam from previous use. This foam can sometimes be retrofitted for your new use, otherwise it can be removed and thrown away.
Get Your Case
Ready to set up your own Pelican case? Browse our current inventory of surplus and refurbished cases — all inspected, cleaned, and ready to foam up.